Clos de Lom Malvasia

Clos de Lom began life back in 1836, founded by the Dupuy de Lome family. We’re in no fancy appellation here, but this wise French family spotted the potential of this site nearly 200 years ago. No fast buck has been made here though- these wines are the culmination of generations of steadfast dedication in the vineyard. The estate was expanded in the 1950s by the grandparents of the latest generation to take the helm, Ismael & José Sanz.

We’re in the ‘Valle dels Alforins’, arguably the finest sub-region within the wider Valencia denomination. Cold winters kill off ‘the nasties’ whilst what can be severe heat in the summer is tempered by the proximity of the sea and the altitude of the vineyards, up some 600m. 55 different plots are matched to a range of varieties that thrive in these dry, sunny conditions. The soils are rich in chalk, which retains nutrients and water, and provides fruit with great definition and elegance. Every hillside, every terrace and every aspect offer unique expressions, which are crafted into a range of distinct, compelling wines.

This was the wine that first alerted me to Clos de Lom. Hard to pigeon-hole, oozing personality. Fruit is sourced from goblet-pruned, dry-farmed vines, averaging 20 years. Why is dry farming important? When vines are irrigated, the roots have no need to dig deep to find water. The deeper a root digs, the greater complexity of nutrients it can absorb. It doesn’t become lazy. (I will resist the temptation to draw any parallels with the furlough system!) In short, the fruit quality from dry-farming is always so much finer than irrigated vines, and has, of course, far less an ecological impact than turning on the hose in such a hot, dry land.

Wonderfully aromatic, with apple, peach and orange blossom notes. 4 months ageing on its lees adds textural intrigue, but that heady mix of bright fruit steals the show.